Sonntag, 23. Oktober 2011

Back home

Sao Paulo Airport was quite annoying. No general overview where to check in, at least I couldn't find it straightaway. Long queue at check in and pass control. Flight seemed shorter than 11.30 hrs but was quite uncomfortable. 45 mins delay at arrival in Frankfurt.
Booked my seat in a train then which had 20 mins delay as well, I only heard it when I booked it already. Met my lovely sister in Dortmund and went to Ahlen together where we had a great Döner Kebap. Hmmmm.
Good to be home!!!!

Mittwoch, 19. Oktober 2011

Brazil - Rio de Janeiro - Album

São Paulo

Got on a bus at 13 h in Rio, guess what ... the sun is shining, perfect beach day, but I was on the bus for 7 hrs. Took the tube to the hostel. I like it easy. Busstation to Metro, Metro to Hostel. The hostel is very nice: Telstar.

Today I went walking around in the huge Ibirapuera Park. Not doing much on my last full day.

Went to eat pizza at Speranza, nice and huge. Couldn't finish it and took the remainder home.

The ultimate last day, the day of my flight which is at 22.55 h local time, I spent at the football museum. Quite nice.

Now off to the airport.

What a great time I had!

Montag, 17. Oktober 2011

Rio de Janeiro Day 7

Last full day in Rio. Rain. And it's Monday. Not only that. It is a kind of commerce day where all shops and malls are closed, Some restaurants as well. It is good that the hostel tells us today, and not mentions it yesterday, so we could buy stuff. The hostel bar is closed mondays. Some thought: "It's raining, shops are closed, lets go to a museum" ... Museums close mondays as well.
Went for a walk in time of light rain, along the beach of Ipanema and to Copacabana Beach. Got quite wet in the end, 1) by not watching the back when walking on the shore , when a giant wave came in and 2) because there was no light rain anymore ... it got heavier! So, rest of the day at the hostel. Tomorrow I will take my last long bus to Sao Paulo.

Rio de Janeiro Day 6

no rain in the morning. No blue sky either but off to the beach nevertheless. Stayed there until 2ish PM, even went into the ocean. Nice enough.
I then went for a run along the waterfront of Ipanema. Sundays and holidays one 2-lane direction seems to be closed off for sports, walking, skating biking ... Nice!!!!
It started raining at around 4 PM until, until ... still raining.
Later in the bathroom I saw that I not only burned my feet, that were covered in sand by the time I put sun protection on, but also a spot on my back, exactly there were I couldn't reach. Looks like old Siegfriedafter bathing in dragonblood, only the other way round. The spot is very red. Hagen von Tronje stung me quite well. Haven't seen him since.

Samstag, 15. Oktober 2011

Freitag, 14. Oktober 2011

Rio de Janeiro Day 4

Weather forecast for today was rain, so I send a nice and beautiful postcard to the weather department and, see, it was nice this morning of Friday, 14th. Today I am exactly travelling for 4 months.
So I thought I do some of the stuff I need a good view for: Cristo statue. I took a bus to the cable car thingy and had to wait there for 1 hour to catch the next train. The bus was half an hour, and the train took some 20 mins or so. A long time to get up. But there where, of course, so many people up there that I just took my pictures and went down again, only some 20 mins later. So, again, waiting, but only 30 mins and the train down. From there I took a bus towards the Sugar Loaf. Waiting for ages, at least it felt like very long. I was supposed to take a 2nd bus but I was already quite close and I don't mind a good walk. It wasn't too long. The cable car up the Loaf has 2 stations, it stops at a hill before it. As it was possible to hike up the hill, I did so. It was very nice I saw some cool monkeys and no ape-descendants :-)
I then took a cable car to the last stop on the actual Loaf. Again, loads of people. So, photos and back quick and hike back down.

Night at the hostel.

Rio de Janeiro Day 3

We went on a tour with 5 guys from the hostel, 1 swiss and his australian girlfriend, one canadian girl, a scottisch pal and a german fellow, oh well, the latter was me.

The tour started in the rich woods of the National Park Tijuca around Rio. We had a stunning view from the Chinese lookout.

The tour then continued to Favela Santa Marta, which is actually the one where Michael Jackson shot his video for "They don't care about us" and they even have a MJ-Statue there. It is supposed to be safer than the other favelas. It is very narrow and steep there.
Actually I felt a bit weird to go on a tourist tour to view the bad conditions they live in. The guide said, that tourism was kind a good for them because the government cares more about them then. In fact, they get free Wi-Fi from the city, as the guide says. They installed a cable car as well. In fact, I thought from the living conditions pooint of view it was not a bad as in the place I worked in in Arequipa, San Isidro. There was more space between houses, but the conditons were worse.

I then had to change hostels. Off to Mango Tree, which is quite nice.

I stayed at the hostel for the night.

Mittwoch, 12. Oktober 2011

Argentina - Buenos Aires - Album

Rio de Janeiro Day 2

Maracana Stadium. The old historic stadium that held almost 200.00 in the World Cup finals between Uruguay and Brazil in 1950 ... which Uruguay won by 2:1.
It is actually under construction, but still it was a must to go. I went on the tubes with Keith, a scottish dude from the hostel.
It was quite hard to figure out the Metro system here. Normally I find Metros easy and quite straightforward, but this one. There are 2 lines we had to take and they run parallel for 10 staions or so. So we started on Line 1 and change to Line 2 but somehow went on Line 1 again and went back. The 2 lines are actually going on the same tracks. So, back to the station where we can combine. The next one in the right direction, but we were not sure if it was 1 or 2 ... so, we got off at the last possible station for both. Good, as it was still Line 1. So, we waited and were still trying to figure out how to see which one is 1 or 2 (or orange or green) ... somehow I found the hint but the Line 2 didn't go that often ... it was a bank holiday in Brasil (I somehow keep stumbling over bank holidays in SA ... Santiago, Buenos Aires, Rio, La Paz). We just waited for 2 more orange ones to pass until there was a green line train.
So, we got there finally.
Then we checked Maracana Stadium and went to the quite expensive museum and couldn't get a glimpse at the inside of the stadium. But we were on historic ground!
So, we went back and considered ourselves experts on the metro now and got on the next tube. Since there was only the green line going there was not much to do wrong. We thought. We got on the train, right direction, too. And after some stops we wondered why there was the Maracana Stadium apearing again. The tube didn't go to the end of the normal route and just went backwards. So, we got off and on again (15 mins wait included) and got off at the next station which we considered to be the joint lines station where we got on the green line before. But the stion looked totally different now. But there WERE stations for both lines. Eventually we found out were we was but couldn't figure out how we got there. It was, according to the map, not possible to go from the Maracana Station to this station on the green line. But we did. From there we were smart enough to take the orange one again. Had a little stop to see the colourful steps to Santa Theresa and got back on the tube. Right line AND right direction. We WERE experts now! But on that tube we were nervous, because we were not sure if it changes direction again at the next big stop. It didn't. Wow.
Funny was also, that on that train there were 2 different Metro maps. One of them showed the connection we did earlier that was not on the hand map. But it also show a difference at the end of the route we were heading. We just closed our eyes and got to our stop in Ipanema.
Experts! ... Well, no!
Metro Rio, ... mystic!

We then made it to Ipanema beach, looked at all the beautiful people and went to the border of Ipanema and Copacabana Beaches to watch the sunset. Unfortunately it was too cloudy but still beautiful. Quiet night at the hostel. Tomorrow Favela-Tour!

Rio de Janeiro Day 1

Ipanema!

Wow, I reached Rio by plane and took a shuttle bus to Ipanema which took actually 2 hrs and it was dark when I got there. Sunsets here at 18 h at the moment.
I booked 2 hostels here because the one I wanted did not have 6 consecutive nights free. So I booked 2 nights in the LightHouse (they did not have 6 nights free a well) and the 4 nights in The Mango Tree. I just extended it to 5 nights, so I will be leaving to Sao Paulo on 18th, stay there for 2 nights. Thats it.

Pizza was what I craved for. So, me being tired of walking around looking for a cheap Restaurant, took the first one around the corner. 15/16€ for a Ham Pizza. Ok, I thought it must be a great and delicious one. I ordered Pizza and a beer. The beer, of course, was on the table in 2 mins, but the Pizza only 2-3 mins after. I don't know how they did it, but they managed to burn the edge of the pizza in just 5 mins. How? ... and it was not worth the money. I thought a full restaurant menas good food but the pizza was shit!

Later we (7 guys from the hostel, which, by the way, only has space for 12) went to a Samba Bar which they told us would be 20 Reals (ca 8€) entrance and between 22 and 23 hrs free Caipirinhas! We thought we would get well filled in 2 hours but once we got there it was only 1 free (and crappy) one and still 20 Reals entrance. What a rip-off! ;-)

Dienstag, 11. Oktober 2011

Buenos Aires -

Day 3 – Friday, 7th

Walking around Puerto Madero. At 4.30 h pick up for the football World Cup 2014 qualifier Argentina vs Chile in Stadium of River Plate. Argentina won 4:1, but the stadium was only 2/3 to ¾ full.

The best was the “organized” tour. We got a pick-up from the hostel with a nice bus. Later the guide said we would soon get a beer and a pizza, but only 5 mins later he admitted that there is only the beer. No pizza. Another 5 mins later he said we should finish the (0,5 l) beer as we are almost there. We then went with the people from the other bus to the Southeast corner (more or less) of the stdium. The guides checked the situation and came to the conclusion that we had to go elsewhere. We went 2 blocks south, 2 west and 2 north to reach a point where we passed security to find out 5 mins later that we were not right. So our guides lead us further north along the west flank of the stadium, passing 2-3 more entrances that also were not right. Finally, having made it to the north side - a ¾ circle around the stadium – our guides lead us back to the entrance we should have gone straight away: the southeast. What a nice tour around the stadium for 30 mins.

Later on the bus they said they would invite us for a free beer at a bar in San Telmo for the inconvenience. Just a couple of us went, somehow the guides didn’t … hmm, at least a free pint.

In the bar I was chatting with 2 young german travelers who were at the game as well when suddenly a drunk guy approached us and told us hehad german blood. He asked us 5-6 times what a sentence meant that his grandfather used to tell him. “Never forget this: ‘Ich bin ein echter Bayer’!” … “What means: ‘Ik bine aine eckte Baia’?” … I think his granddad was one of the nazis who came after WW2.

He then wanted to show us his tattoo on the lower back, saying it was ok, he was proud of it and it had no nazi-symbols or so … it turned out to be a huge german tank from WW2. What a freak.

Ich bin ein echter Bayer! … or did he say “Geier”?

Day 4 – Saturday, 8th

I took the Subte (Metro of BA) to Palermo and went for a walk to the Malba Museum which exhibited some great Latin American art.

From there I made it to Recoleta to see a market and the legendary cemetery, where – amongst others - Evita’s grave is. Weird to have a cemetery as a tourist attraction. :-/

And again at night: Pints at the hostel bar. By the way, the beer on tap (rare in South America) is Isenbeck – but an argentine version.

Day 5 – Sunday, 9th

Nothing special. Went to the market in San Telmo and later along the shopping street of Avenida Florida to by a Rugby Jersey of the Pumas for a friend. Took me some time to find the right size of XXL.

And, guess what, Pints at the bar at night. Serious?

Day 6 – Monday, 10th – last day in BA

Went to the bus station to find out where the shuttles to the airport depart from, and when. It is good to remember, when you have asked for the directions, if the guy said left or right … saves you from walking around hopelessly.

Idea: Subte to Station for 1,10 Pesos and shuttle for 55 Pesos – better than 130 Pesos for a taxi from the hostel.

After finding the station for the shuttles I went to walk around Palermo and have a coffee. Nice area. If I lived in BA I’d choose Palermo.

Yes, night program didn’t change. Somehow I never checked the night scene of BA. I am just not a disco fan. Staying up all night to party then sleep all day … I want to see the city and not lie in bed.

Well, I should have tried at least once ;-)

Day 7 – Tuesday, 11th – flight

Plan with the metro failed. At 7.15h it is packed from front to the back. 3 trains passed leaving me and my backpacks outside. I decided to take a Taxi to the shuttle station which cost me 20 pesos … not too bad and still way cheaper that the straight taxi to the airport.

At the airport I wanted to exchange some money and somehow the last Spanish I spoke was in that bank asking the woman why they would need to know what city I live in … to change Pesos to Real … she already had my passport. I told her to write Berlin as I wasn’t in the mood for spelling my town in Spanish. Why the hell do they need a passport for changing bills?

Rio, here I come!!!

Argentina - Buenos Aires - La Boca - Album

Freitag, 7. Oktober 2011

La Boca

Went to the quarter of La Boca and paid a visit to the football museum of Boca Juniors and a tour of their stadium "La Bombonera". Impressive. It would be nice to see a game here, but this weekend there are international qualifiers ... thus I will be going to the "other" stadium in BA: El Monumental. There will be the 1st qualifier for the World Cup 2014 - Argentina vs. Chile. I will be there :-) ... hopefully it stops raining :-)

Mittwoch, 5. Oktober 2011

Che Boludo!!

B U E N O S A I R E S !!!!!

Finally here! When you fly in you notice how big it is. First impression. Great.
Ostinatto Hostel. Quite nice though the beds seem crap. Let's see.
Steak time. You can't go to BA without getting in the mood for a steak!

I just came back from dinner when I received the sad news that my boss of the last 5 years has died: Steve Jobs. R.I.P.! He made Apple what it is today. Great visionary man. Sad sad sad!

Dienstag, 4. Oktober 2011

Che boludo!

Went to an ATM and it kept my card. Good thing when the bank is closed and you fly out of the end of the world the next morning. But thanks to my pushy manner I got someone out of the bank. "you need to come back tomorrow." - "ahem, I can't, I am flying out." - "You need to come tomorrow!" - "Why?" - "We need to verify who you are!" - "Ahem, I am here. It's me, here is my ID, I CAN'T come tomorrow. I'll be gone and I need my card, YOUR machine took it" ... I guess he understood. 20 mins later I got it, just had to leave a signature on a form.
Good luck in times of bad luck.
Thank good I still have pesos, I didn't want to put the card in any ATM here.
Just imagine, after the whole passport buzz. Would be another story. Losing PP on a friday and the CC a day before you fly through the whole country or almost half the southern hemisphere.

Tomorrow I am off to Buenos Aires, finally!
Can't wait!

BTW the hostel Cruz del Sur here turned out to be very nice. The staff is outstanding and everyone is so friendly. Cool. It's just the dorms that are a bit small. But nothing to complain about.

Tierra del Fuego

I went to the National Park for a nice (and fast) 4 hour walk through a beautiful landscape (see album)
Fast ir was because I kind of rushed through. When I walk alone I do not linger long in nice places to suck in the landscape. After 3,5 months of travels it is kind a hard.
But still, it was beautiful and left one or the other "wow".

Argentina - Tierra del Fuego - Ushuaia - Album

Sonntag, 2. Oktober 2011

Chile - Punta Arenas - Album

Chile - Puerto Natales - Album

Tierra del Fuego

After making a night stop in Punta Arenas at the Strait of Magellan, where I stayed at the Hostal Fin del Mundo, I took a bus at 8.30 h to got to Ushuaia (ARG) on Tierra del Fuego.

Punta Arenas:
the city is OK, but hadn't much to do but walk along the Strait of Magellan, which I really enjoyed. The hostel was strange, very unpersonal. I booked it ahead over Hostelworld but when I got there the landlady didn't know anything but had free spaces. The breakfast was included but without any love. I was prepared and put on place the night before. No one there. Compared to the nights before, where some actually MADE the bf for you. ...
I also did a lot of planing and booking for the remainder of my trip. Now that the end is nigh I need to narrow my plans: Ushuaia until the 5th, flight to BA, and then? How to get to Brazil.
My initial plan: BA to Florianópolis, stop at the brazilian Oktoberfest in the german settlement Blumenau, bus to Rio, Rio for the beaches, bus to Sao Paulo, gone. But the busrides are (in order) 25h, 18h, 6h .... buff. So, after checking the net I made new plans: skip Oktoberfest and fly to Rio directly. That saves so much time and is just a wee bit more expensive.

So. Today I had the busride to Ushuaia. Just reached the hostel Cruz del Sur. First impression: not so impressive. Vamos a ver ... oder vamos a wewer!
The busride was from Punta Arenas to Rio Grande, crossing the border and taking a ferry to tierra del fuego. From Rio Grande there should have been a normal bus to Ushuaia but only 2 minibuses came, with no storage for the bags. It was all a bit chaotic, because we had a stop in between and needed to take more passengers but the bgas were taking all space. And we had a flat tire ... haha. Again. Shortly before 21 h I reached the hostel.
Here I am. Let's see how to spend 2 full days here.




... and yes. Same as with Mount Fitz Roy, I could NOT see the Torres Del Paine. Too cloudy again. :-(

Donnerstag, 29. September 2011

Dienstag, 27. September 2011

El Calafate

I got on the bus at something around 18.15 h and the bus left some 80-90 mins late.
Nevertheless I reached my destination Rio Gallegos in Southern Patagonia and were just able to jump on the 12 o'clock bus to El Calafate, which took me there in 5 h. Straight to my nice Hostel International Point up the hill to enjoy a fantastic view.
So, it was another 24 h journey, but OK. I got here. And El Calafate is reallybeautiful. I just LOVE Argentina.
I booked the hostel for 2 nights and got me a tour to the glacier El Porito Moreno for actually "today". It was breath-taking. I have seen a glacier in New Zealand but this one is better. Same story as with the whale watching. Just better here!
Yesterday I went to have another great steak. First time I discovered "table fee" or so. So, I gave less tip, because I thought this was some kind of that.

For tomorrow I booked a full-day trip to El Chalten with return to El Calafate at around 21h.
The day after, that'll be Thursday I bought a ticket to Puerto Natales which is in Chile. I also got me a flight from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires on Oct. 5th.
So, as you can see. a lot of planning to be done. My journey will come to an end soon and I have to get to Sao Paulo on Oct 20th.
So, a couple of days in BA and then, depending on the buses/planes, off to Florianapolis and then Rio, or straight to Rio before heading to Sao Paulo for the final flight.

Sonntag, 25. September 2011

Puerto Madryn

I stay at the hostel "La Casa de Tounens", which is run by a frenchman and his girlfriend from Argentina. It is very nice and homely. Very good after such a long busride. Makes you NOT want to leave, because you feel at home.
But I have to go. Next bus ist at 17 h to Rio Gallegos and then - after another 18 hrs on the bus - from RG to El Calafate.

Yesterday I did a whole day tour to the Peninsula Valdes (short form) to see Sea Elephants, Penguins and Whales. Was amazing!
Puerto Madryn is an old welsh settlement ... funny, no? First came the people of Wales, now there are whales (... what a bad joke!)
Spring has started and it feels like a hot irish summer, ok, that doesn't exist. I meant "feels like the hottest time between may and August in Ireland" ...something like that.

Freitag, 23. September 2011

almost 34 hours on the bus

finally I made it Puerto Madryn.
I started 22.09. at 9.30 h in Santiago, went to Chile (with another 1-1,5 h at the border, had to wait 2,5 hrs for the next bus to PM, which I reached on 23.09. at 19.30 h.
I was not as bad as expected, though.

But service is sometimes rare. Both trips were with Andesmar and were not cheap. Buses have a toilet on board which only takes liquids. Thats what they say. The bus terminals are quite big in big cities and they host loads of companies that offer all different destinations. So, normally you check their routes and ask for times and prices.
So, I had to stay 2,5 hours at the terminal, as I didn't want to pay for the luggage room (I was too cheap) and there was only one locker left which was gone by the time I change some notes for coin which are rare in Argentina!
So, I satyed and had a coffee. Shortly before I had to take the bus I enquired at Andesmar for the next journey from Puero Madryn. Another one of 90-100€. Shortly after I asked if they could be so kind to mind my big backpack while I visit the bathroom. "No". I begged, "Please, I have 2 journeys today, both with you". - "no, not possible, leave it at the luggage room" --- "It's 12 pesos, a price for the whole day, just 5 mins please." - "No, we can't" (they had loads of space) ... "Please, I am traveling since 9.30 h this morning and I am taking the next Andesmar bus in 30 mins. Just 5 mins" --- She tuned away and paid no more attention to me. I just "thanked" for the non existing service, got my stuff, went to the bathroom with all my backpacks and booked the next journey with another company. Thats how it goes. Starts with little things. Nothing against the busrides, but not with me ;-)

Mittwoch, 21. September 2011

Passport is here!

yipiiiie, I got it
Got an email from the emabssy this morning and went to pick up my provisional passport. Unfortunately all the nice stamps are gone, incl the one with 100 yrs of Machu Picchu. Tuff luck.
I was a bit worried because when I was at the International Police to get my entrance card (the stamp and paper u get when u enter) and they said there was nothing on their system about my entry on 12th and I should come back tomorrow. I said "What??? I can't wait another day here, I have a bus to catch tomorrow morning (hadn't booked it then)."
After all that trouble I am just glad to leave. Chile is nice, but I need to forget. It cost so much money and time. 1) the bus back to Santiago (luckily a promotion price of 35€ instead of 66€) , 2) fotos and pass 70€ 3) the time lost, 4-5 days, Baricloche left out and the way back south ...
just bad with one month left.
I have to rearrange my trip.

But, thats what it is: traveling on your own in South America. You HAVE to be flexible and endurable and PATIENT!
hahaha

At least I can laugh about it! ... and the wine is cheap and GOOOOOOD! :-)

Montag, 19. September 2011

back in Santiago

although I should be in Bariloche now.
I need to get a provisional passport from the embassy. Let's see how long it all takes.
Staying at the same hostel as before.

And maybe it is my spanish, but in Puerto Varas it happened again:
I had to go to the Police of investigations, the normal police send me there after I reported my Passport as lost, I wanted to know if it was found there or in Santiago, the 2 places where it could be. In Puerto Varas it was NOT. The rest should be said by the Police of investigations of Chile (or so).
So, I went there, told the woman that I lost my PP or it was stolen and I reported it and if she could see if it was found in Santiago (would actually save me from loads of traveling wrong directions). She after my question: "Did you report it to the Police?- Me: Yes, I am asking you if you could check if it was found. She: Well you need to go to the police. Me: Well they said you may check. She: you need to report it ... Me: yes, all done. I JUST need to know if YOU could check IF it was found in Santiago. She: No. Me. Bye.

Communication seems to be an issue here in Chile.

Anyhow. Back here in S and not liking the fact. I need to refresh my itinery.

Samstag, 17. September 2011

...

Pass a Puerto Where Is?

Normally I do not lose things. But the passport seems to have disappeared. I don't have a clue how. I have looked erverywhere in Puerto Varas and on the Bus. Gone. So, I booked a bus back to Santiago, same hostel again. Then off to the embassy to get a provisional one.
Needless to say that I am quite annoyed about it. Especially because it happened on a Friday with a long weekend ahead. I won't be able to see the embassy before Tuesday. I may have to skip some places I wanted to see, like Bariloche - should have been my next stop, already had the bus ticket. To cancel that and get the money back was another story. So, let's see how long I have to stay in Santiago. Only good thing: I may be able to see the celebrations for their feria! Maybe my wallets gets stoelen then ... I should go naked. ;-)
I guess I will go to Argentina from Santiago and make a longer journey to the Atlantic coast.
So, no Barilo, Che!

Puerto Varas is very nice. Normally I should be running around grumpy but a look at the sea and the snow-capped volcanoes in the back eases it off. Such a beautiful place!

Freitag, 16. September 2011

Where ist the port?

Puerto Varas.
A nice little town with german history.
I am staying in a singe at Margouya 2 which is quite ok.

I went to the lake side and then sat down for a meal in a restaurant.
Afterv that I walked to the bus terminal (a different one from the one I was dropped off) to get the ticket to Bariloche for Sunday.
When went for some shopping I realized that my passport was not where it should be. So I went back to the hostel to check my luggage. Not there. Then I wnt to the bus stop where I was dropped (I remembered I had the pocket open while I was trying to sleep.
They told me to go to Puerto Montt, the next city, where the same bus would go back to Santiago at 29.15h, so I did, and stayed an hour and a 1/2 in Puerto Montt. Pasport: Not there! So, hop on the bus back to PV.
The other bus terminal, not there ... the restaurant: not there.
I sent an email to the hostel in Santiago (i definetly had there) ... not here now.
" places for tomorrow: the 2 tourist centers. Otherwise: new Passport ... great thing: it happens on a friday night. So, weekend for the embassy AND monday there is a national holiday, big celebrations .... great expectations!!

Mittwoch, 14. September 2011

Santiago de Chile

Got on a bus at 11.15 this morning (Wedensday) to hit the road for Santiago, which is approximately 1,5 hrs from Valpo.
It was nice: I reched the bus terminal at 11.05 and got a ticket for the next bus at 11.15 h ... just picked the right company (there are always many at the terminals. Pullman was the bus. I sat next to a nice young student from Valpo who went to Santiago for getting soome books for her studies.

Luckily I found the hostel Landay Barcelo, as I took the metro from the terminal and got off close to the bigger street I had in mind ... a nice security guy at the terminal told me where to get off the metro. Unfortunately I forgot to write down name and street of the hostel, because I booked it 2 nights earlier quite late and booked another one for the next stop yesterday night. This one I wrote down, but forgot the one for Santiago ... I luckily marked it on the map of my Lonely Planet. But, somehow, the big streets here doesn't seem to have street signs, so I had to guess which streets they are ... I went too far, but just a block, I knew it, thanks to my senses ;-)
The hostel was not easy to find though, because they don't have their name written anywhere outside. There was just a little hostelling international (or so) sign outside. Luckily enough the guy at the shop close to it knew it. It is not easy to find a hostel in a city of 6 million when the only thing you have, is a self-written x on the map ... name - forgotten, street - forgotten.
But, clap on my shoulder, I made it.
Here I am.
Torräh!

So I walked around a bit, went to Parque O'Higgens. Was ok.

On Thursday, my last day in Santiago, I took a "Free Walking Tour" in the city centre. Free means you (can) pay a tip between 7 and 12/13€. But it was great. The guy was very enthusiastic and knowledgable.
After the 4 hour-tour I went up the San Cristobal hill to enjoy the view over Santiago ... I admit, I didn't "go" up, I took the lift, but I walked down!! Fantastic views upo there!

At 21.14 h I took the bus, an I have to say that is very hard to get information from the bus company's service, in this case CondorBus. I asked 2 different agents at what time the bus would be in Puerto Varas. But as soon as I said ...Varas, they said: "not possible" ... "No, at what time ..." --- "It's full" -- "Yeah, great, I HAVE a ticket, at what time will it be ..." -- "Do you have a ticket?" --- "Yes. At what time.." .. "Can I see the ticket" ... "Ahem, I just want to know at what time we will be in Puerto Varas!" ... "Which bus?" (to explain, I was there with all my backbags on ... and he already said it was full) ... "Ahem, the next one (getting quite angry already). At what time will it be in Puerto Varas?" .... "It leaves at 21.14h over there." --- "Aaaaaaaaaaah, A-T W-H-A-T T-I-M-E will it BE in PUERTO VARAAAAAS?" ... OK I may not use all the right words but "what time" and "in Puerto Varas" should give the hint that I am NOT talking about "what time, leave, Santiago" esp. when I already mentioned the departure time to HIM twice!

Great thing was then that on the bus ticket it said "incl. breakfast" ... regarding the price I paid and the length of the bus ride there should actually be dinner as well, even though it starts late. I was on buses that serve dinner after 23 h. So, JUST breakfast it was. But the best thing was what the breakfast actually looked like. A single cookie and a tetra-pack of pineapple juice. They would even serve THAT as breakfast in jail!
Anyway, I reached PV at around 12 PM which was quite late due to the fact that we had to wait for 1-1,5 hrs on our way because of a severe accident South of Santiago.

I walked straight to my hostel.

EARTHQUAKE

My first earthquake!
I woke up by shaking walls at 4 AM, but luckily nothing happend ... actually for them it wasn't even an earthquake, the lady from the hostel in Santiago said later.
It had something like 5.9 ... it was scary!!
http://global.sismos.cl/2011/09/39-km-24-miles-n-of-valparaiso/

Chile - Valparaíso - Album

Dienstag, 13. September 2011

Back in Chile

reaced Valparaíso yesterday at 5 PM.
I had picked the hostel Casa Bella, as it was quite close to the bus-stop, walkable. Most bus terminals on my trip had been quite far from the centre or any good hostel, so this is always good, if you can walk. I booked at single room which has a reasonable price. So, I am having some quiet nights as the 2 nights in Mendoza I was in a 2-bed dorm alone.
The Casa Bella is very nice. And they have the cutest puppy ever. Unbelievably cute!! I have to steal it and take it home! They serve a yummy breakfast and have very nice rooms.

Valpo's quite nice with its u-formed coast.
I actually went the same route as in the Alta Montana Tour, just without stopping for lunch and getting off the bus at scenic places ... hmm, had I known, I could have saved some money ... but knows before ;-)

In Valpo, as they call Valparaíso, I went for a little walk before it got dark (remember it's winter here and gets dark earlier).
Today I first booked my bus from Santiago to Puerto Varas, yes, even though I am not in Santiago yet, but there will be some national celebrations at the weekend and buses seem already fully booked on many routes, even for Thursday. I decided to saty 2 nights in Valpo, 1 night longer than expected and therefore shorten my stay in Santiago. I don't want to see another big city and another Plaza Independencia or Plaza de Armas ... so, 1 night should be enough. I will go there tomorrow morning. It should be 2-2,5 hrs by bus from here. Then I have some time tomorrow and almost the whole Thursday until the bus leaves at night. Enough time to do a city tour from the Plaza de Armas ;-)

I went around Valpo today, uo the hills and through the little streets. At a certain point I passed a streetdog, ... remember, I got bitten by one in Perú, ... and it strated following me. It turned out to be a nice dog looking for company and it picked me. It was being my mate for at least 30 mins. I then went down some stairs and I must have left its area, or it was another dog's hood, a ferocious, mean dog ... or so ... it then looked at me to say goodbye, as dogs normally don't wave when they go.
It left me a bit sad.

Samstag, 10. September 2011

Mendoza

I went straight to the hostel. Just a 15 min walk from the bus station. Hostal Lagares.
I booked a 2-bed dorm as it had a reasonable price.
People are very nice.
So, best thing to do in Mendoza: get a wine tour.

As it was still very early, I first strengthened myself with a breakfast at the hostel, then went to get some money and check the Plaza Independencia before getting on the bus to Maipú to rent a bike with Mr. Hugo and go for a bike&wine tour.

Mr. Hugo is a fantastic guy, you straight get your first wine(s) at his place.
I then went for the tour with Joe from London and Adelia and Lauren from Florida. We were aleady tipsy from Mr. Hugo's wine. We then hade more Liqour, Beer from a local brewery and, of course, V-I-N-OOOOOOooooooo
We then returned to Mr. Hugo where we were served more wine. Needless to say, we had a good day!

Today I went on another day-tour called Alta Montaña which included the (natural) Inca Bridge and a lot of snow. But it wasn't cold :-)

Tomorrow I will catch a bus to Valparaíso ("Valpo"), Chile, at 9AM.

Donnerstag, 8. September 2011

Córdoba, Argentina

I reached Córdoba yesterday at 16.30 hrs, checked buses for the next stop Mendoza and went straight to my Hostal Che Salguero thinking I may stay for 1 night (although 2 nights booked) and go to Mendoza the next night.
The hostel is quite nice. The girl at the reception is from Austria. I found out that they offer some tours, e.g. to Alta Gracia and La Cumbrecita which I then chose for today. So, I do stay 2 nights.

Alta Gracia is a nice little town where Che Guevara lived at an age of 4 to 15 yrs. His family moved there from Rosario because of Ernesto's asthma problems. The area around here is very dry. It hasn't rained for weeks and they are praying for wetness from above.
After that we went on to La Cumbrecita, a very nice little Alpine-style village which was founded by Germans and looks a bit like villages from Germany's south or Tirol. I had Spätzle with Goulash for lunch.
And some nice local beer called Berg Bräu. I was spending the time there with Andrea, Sarah and Henning from Germany, and Jacqueline from Hawaii. We had a great time in that cute little place.

...

The nlast day in Córdoba I just spent walking around the town center and I was done quite early, and was just lingering around.
I took the bus at 22.00 h - semi cama, because it was way cheaper, but never again. It is to small to sleep when you have a neighbour. I switched over to the next 2 seats, I checked that there were no blankets and pillows, so I thought, there wouldn't be people coming at the next stops ... actually I thought there wouldn't be any next stops, because it was already after 0.30 h or later ... but, as soon as I tugged myself in ... Bus-stop, people entering, seats WERE taken, blankets handed out later ... So, back to the tiny space.

I reached Mendoza by 8.00 h

Argentina - Rosario - Album

Dienstag, 6. September 2011

Rosario, Argentina

I took a bus at 7.30 PM to Rosario which I reache at 4.30 AM. Quite early, quite tired.
But the border control was the smoothest I head yet. Not getting off the bus, scanning all luggage, filling papers, nada. Just hand out the passport and get the 2 stamps: leaving Uruguay, entering Argentina.
I had a coffee and a (kind of) croissant and took a bus to the hostel: Che Pampas.
I looked for a spot close to it to ask the busdriver to drop me off there: Plaza de 25 de Mayo it was. But it must be 2 small although it was on the Lonely Planet map. But people are so nice here, while I was on the bus, as we all thought it would go close there, people came up with their ideas, which plaza it may be. :-)

I will stay only for tonight and I spend the day - after a short nap (luckily my bed was free at 6 AM already!) - walking along the beautiful riverside during this beautiful sunny late winter day!
I could have gone for another run, seeing all the locals doing so.
Rosario gets the label: I could live here! ... evern more than Montevideo, as the neighbourhoods are nicer. In Montevideo you can't go to most areas, at least where I stayed, at night and on your own. Rosario seems better.
Beautiful town!!!
I also went to see the house where Che Guevara was born. Lionel Messi was born here as well, but his birthplace is not yet a spot to yaunt.

Tomorrow: bus to Córdoba ... because Germany just smashed Austria in the Qualifiers ;-)

Montevideo, Uruguay

So, I decided against booking in El Viajero in Montevideo and save 15% and booked another hostel that was even cheaper - for a reason!
When I came there I noticed it was shit, kinda ramshackle. Some of the things were not as described, e.g. the lockers that didn't lock and hence do NOT deserve the name "lockers". The beds were crap and so were the sheets. The photographer made a great job for the photos on hostelworld.com!
I decided to cancel the last 2 of the 3 nights and get a bed in ... El Viajero, without the 15%. Thank god, I was able to do so and get my money back for the remaining 2 nights. The staff of the hostel was great. I had a great evening there.
... I think I wrote this all, but I can't find the blog entry.

I didn't do much the first day, jsut went to the seaside.


Sunday the weather was shit so I planned the remainder of my trip and decided to go for are run … as soon as it stopped raining. But it got worse, I actually never heard thunder that loud!! But at around 2 PM it was ok so I went for a run along the coast for an hour. Was great. Haven’t been running in 3 months.
The trip is plannd. More or less. Now I have to reschedule my flight and pay a fee of €150. I am a bit angry because I don’t understand why I had to book a return flight. Initially I planned to get just a flight to Ecuador and then book a return flight as soon as I know from where and when. But the travel agent said that flight companies wouldn’t take me if I hadn’t the return flight - because the companies would have to take me back in case I didn’t get the visa – and I had to book a flight within 3 months/90 days as it was the maximum for the visa … I needed a proof that I leave the country in that period. A flight or a bus ticket would be fine. Crap!!! No border control EVER asked for a proof. You just have to write down how long you stay (90days) and what you will be doing in their country (traveling). Annoying. Now I have to pay the flipping 150€ and decide for a date. Grrrrrrrrr.

Yesterday (Monday) is my last day in Montevideo and Uruguay. I have to catch a bus to Rosario at 7.30 PM. The weather is fine today. Blue sky. So, I rented a bike. Unfortunately ALL bikes from my hostel are broken, so they sent me to … Che Lagarto, my old hostel … damn. But the people there are very cool. Just the hostel sucks. The bike as well. They had two to choose from. The better looking one had a loose front wheel, the other was ok. Not more. I could ride it, as I had no choice. It made its job, not well, but it carried me. So, I cycled along the Rambla – a road along the coastline/beach. It was very nice. Loads of people are going for a run there. I could actually live here. I wonder how hot the summers are. I mean, it’s cold here, at night, and it’s the end of winter, but during a sunny day it’s very nice.

In Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay Mate is the ONE big thing. In Paraguay people carried their thermo bottles in their hands, in Uruguay people put the bottles in their armpits and carry the mate-cup in the hand (same arm). It seems to be a religion and people seem to learn how to carry it from when they are little. I guess I will have to try and bring a mate-cup home when I am in Buenos Aires! … but I am not running through the streets with it ;-)

Viva Colonia!

I can't believe that haven't been posting it already:
Colonia del Sacramento was so nice! I really enjoyed it and I am happy that I squeezed it in my travels as it wasn't on the list. Thanks to a Vanesa who recommended it!

So, El Viajero was the hostel and was nice. I went straight for a walk in the old town centre of this old portugeses smugglers port. Beautiful! See pictures!
Second day I walked along the beach for 2 hours and then back, paying a short visit to El Museo de los Naufragios y Tesoros (the Museum of Shiprecks and Treasures) - which was quite interesting, to the hostel.

Day 3, my last one, I had a bus to Montevideo - a 3 hour ride. The bus was at 11 AM so I had enough time to meet my french friends - who stayed in Buenos Aires but came over for a half-day trip to Colonina - to have a last coffee before they return home.

Bus ride was nothing special.

Uruguay - Montevideo - Album

Mittwoch, 31. August 2011

Iguazu - Argentina - Album

Iguazu - Brazil - Album

Paraguay - Asuncion - Album

Argentina - Cachi Tour - Album

Argentina - Cafayate Tour - Album

Argentina - Salta - Album

Iguazu Falls / Bus to Buenos Aires / Ferry to Uruguay

I am not able to keep up with the pace of the last days. And I haven't been able to upload all the photos.
So, Paraguay or Asuncion didn't work out well. We, Sebastian and Bruno from France, stayed one night in Asuncion and left the next morning to Ciudad del Este. As the name says, it's east of Paraguay, actually on the border to Brazil and Argentina, on the brink to the world famous Iguazu Falls.
The busride turned out to take 6 hrs instead of the promised 4,5. We went straight to the Brazilian side and took a taxi to their side of the Falls. The difference between asking for the taxi-meter to be turned on and agreeing a price beforehand is, that the latter takes to your point of interest the fastest. In our case the right decision as we were flying and we made it 5 minutes before closing of the parque, which we actually did NOT know.
The Brazilian side of the falls was impressing. It gives you a good overview. Amazing!!

We took the last bus back to the Brazilian city Foz de Iguazu, but we wanted to go to Argentina. Luckily enough we met french people on the bus (which is actually NOT surprising as there were thousands of french around here) who knew that we had to get off and take another bus to the Argentinian side and Puerto Iguazu. "Luckily" it was, because Bruno and Sebastian just talked to them seconds before we had to get off ... WE would have stayed. Sometimes you have to be lucky: fast taxi, just in time to enter parque, last bus, right connection ... we just came to Puerto Iguazu to search for a hostel while it was raining ... luckily enough we just had the hostel when it went pouring down like hell. Hostal Residencial Los Rios. Was OK. We had a room for us three.
We then booked a bus to Buenos Aires for 5 PM the next day. I wanted to go to Uruguay but there were no straight buses, so I decided to come as well and take a ferry to Uruguay then.

The next day we wnet to the Argentinian side of the falls. Parque entrance ws cheaper than in Brazil although it is supposed to be larger.
We went straight to the map and decided to get a "train" to the Devil's Throat" which we already saw from the Brazilian side and we knew it was impressive. The train wasn't impressive. It was dead slow and full of silly old people. They were either already drinking heavily or retarded. You would have expected such behaviour from 12-year-olds but they were all over 50, ... at least.
So, the train was so slow that we could have walked. We even had to change trains.
Finally we went to the bridge over the river to the top of Devil's Throat. After walking the more than 1000 meters we had to discover that the last 40 meters were not accessible so we just saw that there was water going over an edge ... it was very disappoiting regarding all the time we spent to get there.
So we ent back. We walked!
The rest of the falls were breath-taking. Astonishing. Unbelievable. Flipping amazing!

We had enough time go go for a restaurant and take the luxury brand new bus to BA.

It was a long ride and we reached BA at 11 AM which makes it 18 hrs.
I found out that the next ferry was at 12.30 and I had to be at the dock one hour ahead of that. The next ferry would only be at 6.30PM. So I rushed to the dock but went down 2 blocks in a wrong direction. Luckily I found out myself that there were no docks to come. I wasn't there one hour ahead but 35 minutes ... they still let me go. The ferry was expensive and boring (ok, was just for 1 hour but there was no possibilidad to go outside of the boat).

I reached Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay by 1.30 PM and walked straight to one of the hostels I found: El Viajero. They even had a promotion for the 2nd night and a discount if I book with them in Montevideo, which will be my next stop.

Colonia's colonial old town is beautiful. When I come out of the hostel I can see the see the sea (or corectamente: el Rio Plata) to the left and to the right - que bonito!

I will now have to do a lot of photo-uploads!


Sonntag, 28. August 2011

Paraguay

I took a bus over night to Clorinda at the border to Paraguay from where we (me and 2 french friends - Bruno and Sebastian - that were traveling with Christian - the Swiss - before) took a taxi to do the immigration (taxidriver claimed it was 12 km but it seemed very close) and a bus to Asuncion from there, which is quite close.
The bus broke down on the way but the driver was able to fix it. Great guy. :-)
Asuncion is not very much as I expected it to be. First it is Sunday and very quiet. Second ... it is not really nice. Some buildings are run down and ugly. In some places you have nice buildings with ghetto-like areas next to it, e.g. sheds next to the governmental palace. Strange! There is not much to see.
I think it was a good decision to stay only for the night, as I booked 2 nights online but decided at the bus stop to get a ticket to Ciudad del Este for tomorrow. Wise!

Donnerstag, 25. August 2011

Around Cafayate

First day in Salta I went with Christian up a little mountain with the Teleférico and walked the way down to relax with a coffee and some Pizza in the centre.

Today we went on a one-day tour to Cafayate. It is set in a beautiful landscape. Lovely day.
Tomorrow I will go on another tour, Cachi. I may hit the road to Paraguay on Saturday, but it may take more or less in total 24 hours on 2 buses. Will have to decide tomorrow!

Dienstag, 23. August 2011

Bolivia - Potosí - Album

Argentina

Finally, I reached the country that I dreamt of seeing: Argentina.
I took a bus (Gemini) from San Pedro de Atacam in Chile to Salta, ARG. Beautiful landscape.
I will stay a couple of days at Backpackers Salta Hostel, which includes Breakfast AND dinner!! Booked over hostelworld for quite a good price. It is a brandnew hostel. Nice!
I will see how to get to Paraguay from here before going south again.

Sonntag, 21. August 2011

Salar de Uyuni (BOL) to San Pedro de Atacama (CHI)

By bye Bolivia, bye bye Coca Leaves, bye bye 80s music! :-)
I stayed one last night at the Pierdra Blanca Hostel which was very good as it was warm at night. Nights get really cold here and that was a great thing to have: heating in the rooms.

I had a wonderful 3 day trip from Uyuni in Bolivia through the Salar de Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. The beginning and some things were (typically for South America) a bit chaotic, but in the end it was beautiful! Although the last night, or more the last morning, was really really cold at almost 5000 masl.

The Salar de Uyuni is the world's largest salt flat and you can cross it by Jeep and take loads of cool photos, once you start it's hard to stop. Now my clothes are full of salt from lying on the ground. On the 1st day our tyre burst but it was all OK, just a bit of waiting and more photo-taking.

At the moment I am in San Pedro de Atacama. Yesterday I went with Unai and Eneko from the Basque Country and Simone from Italy (3 of the guys that were on the Salar de Uyuni - Jeep with me) to stay at Hostal Rural and straight on a joint trip for sandboarding and the Moon Valley, ... but on our way to sandboarding our car got stuck in the sand and couldn't move anymore ... so we walked to the dune and went sandboarding but ... the car still stuck and the trip to see the sunset ant the Moon Valley wasn't happening. So, they offered us moneyback or a new trip, which Simone and I will do today.

Let's see what happens next :-)

Mittwoch, 17. August 2011

Potosi

I finally made it to Potosi, the highest (big) city in the world with ca. 4000 masl and it used to be one of the biggest cities in the world in the early 17th century, because of the silver in the mines.
Some claim that nearly 8 Mio died in them, mostly slaves. Just for the sake of the silver.

I went (of course) to see the mines. I went with The Real Deal as the guides are Ex-Miners.
They still work in the mines to get silver, copper and tin etc.
It was a great experience!

I stayed in a more or less nice Hostel called Casa de Huespedes. Was OK, but why to they let people in my dorm at 1 AM (!) when I am asleep, while there are many other empty dorms? ... of course the 2 girls switched on the lights and made a lot of noise. Best thing: when they finally lay in bed, the one girl asked the other to move around more slowly as the whole bed shakes. Hello?? And then, why all the fuzz when they leave again at 7AM. Why do they have to unpack almost all of their backpacks??? Sometimes I hate hostels, or people without respect. But, thank god, there are different people, like the guy from Colorado in La Paz who even was sorry about his shoes making some noise on the floor ;-)

I took a srubby bus at 10 AM to Uyuni. Nice landscape on the way!
Staying at Pierdra Blanca. Seems to be nice.

Voy a ver!