Dienstag, 27. September 2011

El Calafate

I got on the bus at something around 18.15 h and the bus left some 80-90 mins late.
Nevertheless I reached my destination Rio Gallegos in Southern Patagonia and were just able to jump on the 12 o'clock bus to El Calafate, which took me there in 5 h. Straight to my nice Hostel International Point up the hill to enjoy a fantastic view.
So, it was another 24 h journey, but OK. I got here. And El Calafate is reallybeautiful. I just LOVE Argentina.
I booked the hostel for 2 nights and got me a tour to the glacier El Porito Moreno for actually "today". It was breath-taking. I have seen a glacier in New Zealand but this one is better. Same story as with the whale watching. Just better here!
Yesterday I went to have another great steak. First time I discovered "table fee" or so. So, I gave less tip, because I thought this was some kind of that.

For tomorrow I booked a full-day trip to El Chalten with return to El Calafate at around 21h.
The day after, that'll be Thursday I bought a ticket to Puerto Natales which is in Chile. I also got me a flight from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires on Oct. 5th.
So, as you can see. a lot of planning to be done. My journey will come to an end soon and I have to get to Sao Paulo on Oct 20th.
So, a couple of days in BA and then, depending on the buses/planes, off to Florianapolis and then Rio, or straight to Rio before heading to Sao Paulo for the final flight.

Sonntag, 25. September 2011

Puerto Madryn

I stay at the hostel "La Casa de Tounens", which is run by a frenchman and his girlfriend from Argentina. It is very nice and homely. Very good after such a long busride. Makes you NOT want to leave, because you feel at home.
But I have to go. Next bus ist at 17 h to Rio Gallegos and then - after another 18 hrs on the bus - from RG to El Calafate.

Yesterday I did a whole day tour to the Peninsula Valdes (short form) to see Sea Elephants, Penguins and Whales. Was amazing!
Puerto Madryn is an old welsh settlement ... funny, no? First came the people of Wales, now there are whales (... what a bad joke!)
Spring has started and it feels like a hot irish summer, ok, that doesn't exist. I meant "feels like the hottest time between may and August in Ireland" ...something like that.

Freitag, 23. September 2011

almost 34 hours on the bus

finally I made it Puerto Madryn.
I started 22.09. at 9.30 h in Santiago, went to Chile (with another 1-1,5 h at the border, had to wait 2,5 hrs for the next bus to PM, which I reached on 23.09. at 19.30 h.
I was not as bad as expected, though.

But service is sometimes rare. Both trips were with Andesmar and were not cheap. Buses have a toilet on board which only takes liquids. Thats what they say. The bus terminals are quite big in big cities and they host loads of companies that offer all different destinations. So, normally you check their routes and ask for times and prices.
So, I had to stay 2,5 hours at the terminal, as I didn't want to pay for the luggage room (I was too cheap) and there was only one locker left which was gone by the time I change some notes for coin which are rare in Argentina!
So, I satyed and had a coffee. Shortly before I had to take the bus I enquired at Andesmar for the next journey from Puero Madryn. Another one of 90-100€. Shortly after I asked if they could be so kind to mind my big backpack while I visit the bathroom. "No". I begged, "Please, I have 2 journeys today, both with you". - "no, not possible, leave it at the luggage room" --- "It's 12 pesos, a price for the whole day, just 5 mins please." - "No, we can't" (they had loads of space) ... "Please, I am traveling since 9.30 h this morning and I am taking the next Andesmar bus in 30 mins. Just 5 mins" --- She tuned away and paid no more attention to me. I just "thanked" for the non existing service, got my stuff, went to the bathroom with all my backpacks and booked the next journey with another company. Thats how it goes. Starts with little things. Nothing against the busrides, but not with me ;-)

Mittwoch, 21. September 2011

Passport is here!

yipiiiie, I got it
Got an email from the emabssy this morning and went to pick up my provisional passport. Unfortunately all the nice stamps are gone, incl the one with 100 yrs of Machu Picchu. Tuff luck.
I was a bit worried because when I was at the International Police to get my entrance card (the stamp and paper u get when u enter) and they said there was nothing on their system about my entry on 12th and I should come back tomorrow. I said "What??? I can't wait another day here, I have a bus to catch tomorrow morning (hadn't booked it then)."
After all that trouble I am just glad to leave. Chile is nice, but I need to forget. It cost so much money and time. 1) the bus back to Santiago (luckily a promotion price of 35€ instead of 66€) , 2) fotos and pass 70€ 3) the time lost, 4-5 days, Baricloche left out and the way back south ...
just bad with one month left.
I have to rearrange my trip.

But, thats what it is: traveling on your own in South America. You HAVE to be flexible and endurable and PATIENT!
hahaha

At least I can laugh about it! ... and the wine is cheap and GOOOOOOD! :-)

Montag, 19. September 2011

back in Santiago

although I should be in Bariloche now.
I need to get a provisional passport from the embassy. Let's see how long it all takes.
Staying at the same hostel as before.

And maybe it is my spanish, but in Puerto Varas it happened again:
I had to go to the Police of investigations, the normal police send me there after I reported my Passport as lost, I wanted to know if it was found there or in Santiago, the 2 places where it could be. In Puerto Varas it was NOT. The rest should be said by the Police of investigations of Chile (or so).
So, I went there, told the woman that I lost my PP or it was stolen and I reported it and if she could see if it was found in Santiago (would actually save me from loads of traveling wrong directions). She after my question: "Did you report it to the Police?- Me: Yes, I am asking you if you could check if it was found. She: Well you need to go to the police. Me: Well they said you may check. She: you need to report it ... Me: yes, all done. I JUST need to know if YOU could check IF it was found in Santiago. She: No. Me. Bye.

Communication seems to be an issue here in Chile.

Anyhow. Back here in S and not liking the fact. I need to refresh my itinery.

Samstag, 17. September 2011

...

Pass a Puerto Where Is?

Normally I do not lose things. But the passport seems to have disappeared. I don't have a clue how. I have looked erverywhere in Puerto Varas and on the Bus. Gone. So, I booked a bus back to Santiago, same hostel again. Then off to the embassy to get a provisional one.
Needless to say that I am quite annoyed about it. Especially because it happened on a Friday with a long weekend ahead. I won't be able to see the embassy before Tuesday. I may have to skip some places I wanted to see, like Bariloche - should have been my next stop, already had the bus ticket. To cancel that and get the money back was another story. So, let's see how long I have to stay in Santiago. Only good thing: I may be able to see the celebrations for their feria! Maybe my wallets gets stoelen then ... I should go naked. ;-)
I guess I will go to Argentina from Santiago and make a longer journey to the Atlantic coast.
So, no Barilo, Che!

Puerto Varas is very nice. Normally I should be running around grumpy but a look at the sea and the snow-capped volcanoes in the back eases it off. Such a beautiful place!

Freitag, 16. September 2011

Where ist the port?

Puerto Varas.
A nice little town with german history.
I am staying in a singe at Margouya 2 which is quite ok.

I went to the lake side and then sat down for a meal in a restaurant.
Afterv that I walked to the bus terminal (a different one from the one I was dropped off) to get the ticket to Bariloche for Sunday.
When went for some shopping I realized that my passport was not where it should be. So I went back to the hostel to check my luggage. Not there. Then I wnt to the bus stop where I was dropped (I remembered I had the pocket open while I was trying to sleep.
They told me to go to Puerto Montt, the next city, where the same bus would go back to Santiago at 29.15h, so I did, and stayed an hour and a 1/2 in Puerto Montt. Pasport: Not there! So, hop on the bus back to PV.
The other bus terminal, not there ... the restaurant: not there.
I sent an email to the hostel in Santiago (i definetly had there) ... not here now.
" places for tomorrow: the 2 tourist centers. Otherwise: new Passport ... great thing: it happens on a friday night. So, weekend for the embassy AND monday there is a national holiday, big celebrations .... great expectations!!

Mittwoch, 14. September 2011

Santiago de Chile

Got on a bus at 11.15 this morning (Wedensday) to hit the road for Santiago, which is approximately 1,5 hrs from Valpo.
It was nice: I reched the bus terminal at 11.05 and got a ticket for the next bus at 11.15 h ... just picked the right company (there are always many at the terminals. Pullman was the bus. I sat next to a nice young student from Valpo who went to Santiago for getting soome books for her studies.

Luckily I found the hostel Landay Barcelo, as I took the metro from the terminal and got off close to the bigger street I had in mind ... a nice security guy at the terminal told me where to get off the metro. Unfortunately I forgot to write down name and street of the hostel, because I booked it 2 nights earlier quite late and booked another one for the next stop yesterday night. This one I wrote down, but forgot the one for Santiago ... I luckily marked it on the map of my Lonely Planet. But, somehow, the big streets here doesn't seem to have street signs, so I had to guess which streets they are ... I went too far, but just a block, I knew it, thanks to my senses ;-)
The hostel was not easy to find though, because they don't have their name written anywhere outside. There was just a little hostelling international (or so) sign outside. Luckily enough the guy at the shop close to it knew it. It is not easy to find a hostel in a city of 6 million when the only thing you have, is a self-written x on the map ... name - forgotten, street - forgotten.
But, clap on my shoulder, I made it.
Here I am.
Torräh!

So I walked around a bit, went to Parque O'Higgens. Was ok.

On Thursday, my last day in Santiago, I took a "Free Walking Tour" in the city centre. Free means you (can) pay a tip between 7 and 12/13€. But it was great. The guy was very enthusiastic and knowledgable.
After the 4 hour-tour I went up the San Cristobal hill to enjoy the view over Santiago ... I admit, I didn't "go" up, I took the lift, but I walked down!! Fantastic views upo there!

At 21.14 h I took the bus, an I have to say that is very hard to get information from the bus company's service, in this case CondorBus. I asked 2 different agents at what time the bus would be in Puerto Varas. But as soon as I said ...Varas, they said: "not possible" ... "No, at what time ..." --- "It's full" -- "Yeah, great, I HAVE a ticket, at what time will it be ..." -- "Do you have a ticket?" --- "Yes. At what time.." .. "Can I see the ticket" ... "Ahem, I just want to know at what time we will be in Puerto Varas!" ... "Which bus?" (to explain, I was there with all my backbags on ... and he already said it was full) ... "Ahem, the next one (getting quite angry already). At what time will it be in Puerto Varas?" .... "It leaves at 21.14h over there." --- "Aaaaaaaaaaah, A-T W-H-A-T T-I-M-E will it BE in PUERTO VARAAAAAS?" ... OK I may not use all the right words but "what time" and "in Puerto Varas" should give the hint that I am NOT talking about "what time, leave, Santiago" esp. when I already mentioned the departure time to HIM twice!

Great thing was then that on the bus ticket it said "incl. breakfast" ... regarding the price I paid and the length of the bus ride there should actually be dinner as well, even though it starts late. I was on buses that serve dinner after 23 h. So, JUST breakfast it was. But the best thing was what the breakfast actually looked like. A single cookie and a tetra-pack of pineapple juice. They would even serve THAT as breakfast in jail!
Anyway, I reached PV at around 12 PM which was quite late due to the fact that we had to wait for 1-1,5 hrs on our way because of a severe accident South of Santiago.

I walked straight to my hostel.

EARTHQUAKE

My first earthquake!
I woke up by shaking walls at 4 AM, but luckily nothing happend ... actually for them it wasn't even an earthquake, the lady from the hostel in Santiago said later.
It had something like 5.9 ... it was scary!!
http://global.sismos.cl/2011/09/39-km-24-miles-n-of-valparaiso/

Chile - Valparaíso - Album

Dienstag, 13. September 2011

Back in Chile

reaced Valparaíso yesterday at 5 PM.
I had picked the hostel Casa Bella, as it was quite close to the bus-stop, walkable. Most bus terminals on my trip had been quite far from the centre or any good hostel, so this is always good, if you can walk. I booked at single room which has a reasonable price. So, I am having some quiet nights as the 2 nights in Mendoza I was in a 2-bed dorm alone.
The Casa Bella is very nice. And they have the cutest puppy ever. Unbelievably cute!! I have to steal it and take it home! They serve a yummy breakfast and have very nice rooms.

Valpo's quite nice with its u-formed coast.
I actually went the same route as in the Alta Montana Tour, just without stopping for lunch and getting off the bus at scenic places ... hmm, had I known, I could have saved some money ... but knows before ;-)

In Valpo, as they call Valparaíso, I went for a little walk before it got dark (remember it's winter here and gets dark earlier).
Today I first booked my bus from Santiago to Puerto Varas, yes, even though I am not in Santiago yet, but there will be some national celebrations at the weekend and buses seem already fully booked on many routes, even for Thursday. I decided to saty 2 nights in Valpo, 1 night longer than expected and therefore shorten my stay in Santiago. I don't want to see another big city and another Plaza Independencia or Plaza de Armas ... so, 1 night should be enough. I will go there tomorrow morning. It should be 2-2,5 hrs by bus from here. Then I have some time tomorrow and almost the whole Thursday until the bus leaves at night. Enough time to do a city tour from the Plaza de Armas ;-)

I went around Valpo today, uo the hills and through the little streets. At a certain point I passed a streetdog, ... remember, I got bitten by one in Perú, ... and it strated following me. It turned out to be a nice dog looking for company and it picked me. It was being my mate for at least 30 mins. I then went down some stairs and I must have left its area, or it was another dog's hood, a ferocious, mean dog ... or so ... it then looked at me to say goodbye, as dogs normally don't wave when they go.
It left me a bit sad.

Samstag, 10. September 2011

Mendoza

I went straight to the hostel. Just a 15 min walk from the bus station. Hostal Lagares.
I booked a 2-bed dorm as it had a reasonable price.
People are very nice.
So, best thing to do in Mendoza: get a wine tour.

As it was still very early, I first strengthened myself with a breakfast at the hostel, then went to get some money and check the Plaza Independencia before getting on the bus to Maipú to rent a bike with Mr. Hugo and go for a bike&wine tour.

Mr. Hugo is a fantastic guy, you straight get your first wine(s) at his place.
I then went for the tour with Joe from London and Adelia and Lauren from Florida. We were aleady tipsy from Mr. Hugo's wine. We then hade more Liqour, Beer from a local brewery and, of course, V-I-N-OOOOOOooooooo
We then returned to Mr. Hugo where we were served more wine. Needless to say, we had a good day!

Today I went on another day-tour called Alta Montaña which included the (natural) Inca Bridge and a lot of snow. But it wasn't cold :-)

Tomorrow I will catch a bus to Valparaíso ("Valpo"), Chile, at 9AM.

Donnerstag, 8. September 2011

Córdoba, Argentina

I reached Córdoba yesterday at 16.30 hrs, checked buses for the next stop Mendoza and went straight to my Hostal Che Salguero thinking I may stay for 1 night (although 2 nights booked) and go to Mendoza the next night.
The hostel is quite nice. The girl at the reception is from Austria. I found out that they offer some tours, e.g. to Alta Gracia and La Cumbrecita which I then chose for today. So, I do stay 2 nights.

Alta Gracia is a nice little town where Che Guevara lived at an age of 4 to 15 yrs. His family moved there from Rosario because of Ernesto's asthma problems. The area around here is very dry. It hasn't rained for weeks and they are praying for wetness from above.
After that we went on to La Cumbrecita, a very nice little Alpine-style village which was founded by Germans and looks a bit like villages from Germany's south or Tirol. I had Spätzle with Goulash for lunch.
And some nice local beer called Berg Bräu. I was spending the time there with Andrea, Sarah and Henning from Germany, and Jacqueline from Hawaii. We had a great time in that cute little place.

...

The nlast day in Córdoba I just spent walking around the town center and I was done quite early, and was just lingering around.
I took the bus at 22.00 h - semi cama, because it was way cheaper, but never again. It is to small to sleep when you have a neighbour. I switched over to the next 2 seats, I checked that there were no blankets and pillows, so I thought, there wouldn't be people coming at the next stops ... actually I thought there wouldn't be any next stops, because it was already after 0.30 h or later ... but, as soon as I tugged myself in ... Bus-stop, people entering, seats WERE taken, blankets handed out later ... So, back to the tiny space.

I reached Mendoza by 8.00 h

Argentina - Rosario - Album

Dienstag, 6. September 2011

Rosario, Argentina

I took a bus at 7.30 PM to Rosario which I reache at 4.30 AM. Quite early, quite tired.
But the border control was the smoothest I head yet. Not getting off the bus, scanning all luggage, filling papers, nada. Just hand out the passport and get the 2 stamps: leaving Uruguay, entering Argentina.
I had a coffee and a (kind of) croissant and took a bus to the hostel: Che Pampas.
I looked for a spot close to it to ask the busdriver to drop me off there: Plaza de 25 de Mayo it was. But it must be 2 small although it was on the Lonely Planet map. But people are so nice here, while I was on the bus, as we all thought it would go close there, people came up with their ideas, which plaza it may be. :-)

I will stay only for tonight and I spend the day - after a short nap (luckily my bed was free at 6 AM already!) - walking along the beautiful riverside during this beautiful sunny late winter day!
I could have gone for another run, seeing all the locals doing so.
Rosario gets the label: I could live here! ... evern more than Montevideo, as the neighbourhoods are nicer. In Montevideo you can't go to most areas, at least where I stayed, at night and on your own. Rosario seems better.
Beautiful town!!!
I also went to see the house where Che Guevara was born. Lionel Messi was born here as well, but his birthplace is not yet a spot to yaunt.

Tomorrow: bus to Córdoba ... because Germany just smashed Austria in the Qualifiers ;-)

Montevideo, Uruguay

So, I decided against booking in El Viajero in Montevideo and save 15% and booked another hostel that was even cheaper - for a reason!
When I came there I noticed it was shit, kinda ramshackle. Some of the things were not as described, e.g. the lockers that didn't lock and hence do NOT deserve the name "lockers". The beds were crap and so were the sheets. The photographer made a great job for the photos on hostelworld.com!
I decided to cancel the last 2 of the 3 nights and get a bed in ... El Viajero, without the 15%. Thank god, I was able to do so and get my money back for the remaining 2 nights. The staff of the hostel was great. I had a great evening there.
... I think I wrote this all, but I can't find the blog entry.

I didn't do much the first day, jsut went to the seaside.


Sunday the weather was shit so I planned the remainder of my trip and decided to go for are run … as soon as it stopped raining. But it got worse, I actually never heard thunder that loud!! But at around 2 PM it was ok so I went for a run along the coast for an hour. Was great. Haven’t been running in 3 months.
The trip is plannd. More or less. Now I have to reschedule my flight and pay a fee of €150. I am a bit angry because I don’t understand why I had to book a return flight. Initially I planned to get just a flight to Ecuador and then book a return flight as soon as I know from where and when. But the travel agent said that flight companies wouldn’t take me if I hadn’t the return flight - because the companies would have to take me back in case I didn’t get the visa – and I had to book a flight within 3 months/90 days as it was the maximum for the visa … I needed a proof that I leave the country in that period. A flight or a bus ticket would be fine. Crap!!! No border control EVER asked for a proof. You just have to write down how long you stay (90days) and what you will be doing in their country (traveling). Annoying. Now I have to pay the flipping 150€ and decide for a date. Grrrrrrrrr.

Yesterday (Monday) is my last day in Montevideo and Uruguay. I have to catch a bus to Rosario at 7.30 PM. The weather is fine today. Blue sky. So, I rented a bike. Unfortunately ALL bikes from my hostel are broken, so they sent me to … Che Lagarto, my old hostel … damn. But the people there are very cool. Just the hostel sucks. The bike as well. They had two to choose from. The better looking one had a loose front wheel, the other was ok. Not more. I could ride it, as I had no choice. It made its job, not well, but it carried me. So, I cycled along the Rambla – a road along the coastline/beach. It was very nice. Loads of people are going for a run there. I could actually live here. I wonder how hot the summers are. I mean, it’s cold here, at night, and it’s the end of winter, but during a sunny day it’s very nice.

In Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay Mate is the ONE big thing. In Paraguay people carried their thermo bottles in their hands, in Uruguay people put the bottles in their armpits and carry the mate-cup in the hand (same arm). It seems to be a religion and people seem to learn how to carry it from when they are little. I guess I will have to try and bring a mate-cup home when I am in Buenos Aires! … but I am not running through the streets with it ;-)

Viva Colonia!

I can't believe that haven't been posting it already:
Colonia del Sacramento was so nice! I really enjoyed it and I am happy that I squeezed it in my travels as it wasn't on the list. Thanks to a Vanesa who recommended it!

So, El Viajero was the hostel and was nice. I went straight for a walk in the old town centre of this old portugeses smugglers port. Beautiful! See pictures!
Second day I walked along the beach for 2 hours and then back, paying a short visit to El Museo de los Naufragios y Tesoros (the Museum of Shiprecks and Treasures) - which was quite interesting, to the hostel.

Day 3, my last one, I had a bus to Montevideo - a 3 hour ride. The bus was at 11 AM so I had enough time to meet my french friends - who stayed in Buenos Aires but came over for a half-day trip to Colonina - to have a last coffee before they return home.

Bus ride was nothing special.

Uruguay - Montevideo - Album